Bathtub Refinishing FAQ — Los Angeles

Yes — reglazing, refinishing and resurfacing all mean the same thing: the worn surface of your existing tub is prepared and coated with a new enamel layer, in place, without removing the tub. We use the pour-on method: a thick, self-leveling enamel that is poured over the tub rather than sprayed.

About 3–4 hours for a standard tub. That includes sanding, acid etching, cleaning, sealing the seam, pouring the enamel and cleanup. Tubs with a lot of chips or an old failed coating take a little longer.

24 hours after we leave. Keep the bathroom closed and don't touch the surface during that time — dust or water on an uncured finish leaves marks.

10 years or more with normal care. A pour-on finish is many times thicker than a sprayed one, which is why it doesn't chip or peel the way sprayed coatings do within a year or two. We back it with a 5-year written warranty.

The enamel is solvent-free and odorless. There are no fumes during the job and nothing to air out afterwards — you, your family and your pets can stay home. Nobody has to leave the unit, which matters in apartment buildings.

From $475 for a standard cast-iron or steel tub, tax included. The quote covers everything: materials, labor, caulking and cleanup. We quote from photos, and the quote is the price you pay unless the tub turns out materially different from what was shown.

Mostly three things: an old refinish that has to be sanded off, heavy damage (deep rust, many chips) that needs extra filling, and unusually large tubs. We tell you the exact price before you book.

Text or email a photo of the tub — one from above and one of the worst area — with your ZIP. We reply with the price the same day, usually within the hour. No site visit needed.

No. Quotes are free and done from photos. You pay on completion, the day of the job.

Yes — apartment turnover is a big part of what we do. We carry $2,000,000 general liability insurance, provide a certificate of insurance on request, offer volume pricing from two tubs, and invoice repeat accounts. See our page for property managers.

Cast-iron and porcelain-enameled steel bathtubs, including clawfoot tubs (interior only) and tubs with an apron. These are the tubs in most Los Angeles homes and buildings built before the 1980s.

No. We work on cast-iron and steel bathtubs only — no acrylic, fiberglass, shower pans, tile or sinks. If a magnet sticks to the side of your tub, it's cast iron or steel and we can refinish it.

We refinish in white only — no custom colors. The original color doesn't matter: pink, blue, green or almond tubs from the 1950s–70s come out the same glossy white as any other.

Yes, and it's one of our most common jobs. The failed coating is sanded off first, then the tub is etched and refinished like any other. Tell us it's been refinished before when you send photos — removing the old coat is extra work and the quote should reflect it.

Yes — as part of refinishing the whole tub. Chips and rust pits are ground out, filled and covered by the new finish, so the repair disappears. We don't do spot repairs: a patch never matches and fails at the edges within months.

No. We don't install liners, don't remove them, and don't refinish tubs that have had one — water trapped under a liner rusts the tub, and the damage usually can't be repaired. For those, a general contractor and a new tub is the honest answer.

Yes, at no extra charge. The old caulk is removed, the tub-to-wall seam is resealed with a flexible sealant, and the new enamel goes over it — so there's no visible caulk line to yellow or grow mold. We don't offer caulking as a separate service.

Empty the tub and the area around it, make sure water and electricity work, and if the tub has a shower door, have it removed before we arrive — we don't remove or reinstall shower doors. That's all; no cleaning needed.

Someone needs to let us in and be reachable by phone. You don't have to stay for the whole job.

Mild liquid soap or any non-abrasive bathroom cleaner and a soft sponge. Avoid scouring powders, bleach, drain openers, stiff brushes and suction-cup mats. Wipe it dry after use if you have hard water. Full guide: How to clean a refinished bathtub.

Peeling, bubbling and loss of adhesion for 5 years. It doesn't cover damage from abrasives, harsh chemicals, suction mats, impact, plumbing leaks behind the tub, or using the tub before it cured. If a covered problem comes up, we fix it at no charge.

Across Los Angeles and the surrounding cities — from Glendale and Pasadena to Santa Monica, the Valley and Long Beach. Send your ZIP with the photos and we'll confirm.